28th June 2016 - Shelter Cove CA - Kms to date 596.

Kms today: 350


We left our luxurious Motel 6 accommodation in Santa Rosa at approx 8.30am with the temperature at a very pleasant 20C. We thought we were going to head north on US 101 but Mabel decided otherwise. Under protest Colin followed Mabel’s instructions. She took us west and then north on 116 through a little town called Forestville where we decided to stop for breakfast. It was then I realised I had programmed Mabel to head for the coast which I knew would be cooler than the inferno we were suffering inland. The coffee shop we stopped at was headquarters for the great unwashed rejects from the 60s so we fitted in perfectly. The coffee and muffins were really very nice so there is something to say for the alternative life style. After breakfast we went through the usual painful exercise of buying fuel with our aussie credit cards. We hit the coast at Jenner CA where we joined Highway 1 and headed north.

                                                    Darth Vader Surveys his Domain.

The weather was a mild 23C and the views over the pacific ocean spectacular. Just outside Jenner a river flowed into the ocean and there were hundreds of seals romping in the confusion as the freshwater hit the sea. Many photos were taken. The road north as well as being spectacular was VERY tight and TWISTY.

View of the Pacific coast from Hwy 1.

The slower traffic would pullover and let us past, very civilised. Around Point Arena the sea fog that San Francisco is famous for came in over the land and the temperature dropped dramatically down to 10C!!! I persevered with my summer riding gear for a while thinking that it would blow over and warm up. No chance, so before I was frozen to my handle bars I stopped and put the liners etc in my jacket, swapped my summer gloves for winter and switched on the grip warmers. The fog persisted all the way to Mendocino where we had lunch. We met a young American lad on a Honda sports bike (CBR600R) who had ridden into town with only a T-shirt on and had bought another shirt to try and warm up. We shot the breeze with him and a knowledgeable local who knew Shelter Cove. He described it as a failed real estate development. We had lunch outside on the balcony of the restaurant with our riding jackets on. We had a view of the local populus and tourists getting ready for the “Mendocino Music Festival” this coming week-end which is the 4th July holiday. One to miss I think.

Bundaberg Lemon Lime and Bitters in Mendocino.

Colin spent a week in the local post office trying to post a document. I was outside shooting the breeze with a local GS owner who told me that the fog should lift about Westport which was about 30kms along the road. Sure enough when we went through Westport the temperature started to rise as the fog cleared. The road wound through picturesque pine forests up a valley to the highway 101 and as it got further away from the coast the temperature rose dramatically. We pulled over at a disused gas station and divested ourselves of our liners reverting back to summer mode before we became parboiled. The road down to Shelter Cove was twisty and full of potholes. It was difficult to see the rough bits because of the shadows. We arrived safely and found our accommodation after consulting Mabel. Our host at the Beachcomber Inn was Sara a member of the great unwashed brigade.

The local goats check out Alan at Shelter Cove.

The condition of our room was a cross between Salvation Army Peoples Palace and a park bench. It was missing a few towels etc but we managed to get Sara on the ball and get it sorted. There are no restaurants in Shelter Cove so we headed to the local store which was back up the windy, potholed track and purchased dinner and breakfast and of course a few cold beers. After dinner including our A$85 bottle of wine we went out to explore the ‘town’ and view the sunset. Missed the sunset and saw the sights in 15 minutes flat. We had a nightcap in Mario’s bar, the local hot spot!!! Totally exhausted we hit the sack at 10pm.